tamiya space shuttle build

With the use of the finer sandpaper or sanding sticks you can remove the previously made scratches from the plastic. Nothing happened to the windows on my build. The AFRSI used on Discovery, Atlantis and Endeavour and later partially fitted to Columbia is best represented by painted pieces of tape (I use squares of Tamiya masking tape in 1:144, while Durapore surgical tape would look fine for 1:72 or 1:100). With vacation and the holiday madness behind me, it's finally time to get back to my shuttle build. Anyone ever have any luck getting replacement parts? I'm not sure the black window tinting will cover the scratched windows. You'll never get a piece of sand paper into that small area to polish it out. I really looking forward to the results! Anyway, as a precaution, I masked the paint areas around the window and very cautiously applied small amounts of Goo Gone to the affected areas with a sponge stick. I have great luck with Micro Mesh sanding stick for small areas or small touch up sanding. Hotdog, There may be some damage to the nearby paint but this can be more easily fixed and resprayed. After I glued the clear part in I filled around the perimeter with putty and blended the clear part in with the white plastic to eliminate the seam. On the actual orbiters there is no even or clean looking area. I also think that you may want to try it with careful sanding, from coarse paper up to 1000- wet sand paper. The tile on late model shuttles is just around the flight deck, making it isolated. What I've been doing is taking the high-resolution images I have collected of the orbiter and using them to make "textures" to go on these decal shape scans.

Import the scans into Illustrator or Photoshop and do any necessary cleaning up and refinement to the shapes of the decals so that you may use them as masks (I just draw them out in Illustrator). The only real problem I encountered with CE designing them for the Minicraft kit involved the tops of the nose section as I had to cut tile elements into small pieces to graft them on. With the wings masked off, it was time to test the rattle can airbrush on some spare styrene I had sitting around. The clear window part became foggy from being sanded so I used the micro mesh cloths to polish it. Camouflage Gray Acryl turned out to be close enough. Then use the soft cloth and polishing compound to bring the plastic to it's original luster. Should I try spraying the flat black on this time? The glue already came loose during this process and I had to use my Tamiya Extra Thin adhesive to stick it back on from the outside. It looked great, but of course was not exactly sized to a model kit orbiter. I did some rough math and figured it would STILL take about two months to do that, and that would be on a shuttle with AFRSI blankets, not a real flying brickyard with tiles on the whole nose and sides like pre-1988 Columbia and Challenger. I am going to have to break out the brake fluid to strip these and start over again. The Tamiya tape did a perfect job this time of holding the masked areas. I stick with Tamiya masking tape. Now, I can start on the Atlantis kit that is waiting on the workbench. Once upon a time I was planning on building a 1:72 Monogram orbiter and covering the appropriate areas with tiny individual tiles cut from .010 sheet. I am really looking forward to see your decals especially since you put so much time and effort into it. With the painting of the main body finally finished, it was now safe to peel off the window masks. (Legal stuff: I did it for my own purposes, for my own model, for my own use, based on a decal sheet in my possession.) I can already see this piece breaking off in the polishing process so why not just pop a new set of eyeballs in this thing while I'm at it if it reaches that point? Now you will want to scan the strips of tracing paper into the computer. I don't think that the polishing of the window will fail as long as the problem lies on the surface. When I was painting my shuttle I handled it a lot and left any dirt or grime to add to the effect. If you sand it down deep enough you will also remove the problem areas.

Will that be at the hobby store too or is that a hardware store purchase? I feared worse-case scenario it could take all the white off the nose with it and kill the entire build. You can post now and register later.

I eventually reached the conclusion that I could probably do the texturing/weathering job well with the modeling skills I already have. As for the CE sheet itself, I wouldn't say it was badly executed. I am using some elements from that texture map for my 1/100 scale artwork, but even at the smaller scale it is a bit of a stretch to do that and I'm having to work some of my Photoshop magic to compensate for the loss in resolution when you take artwork made for a 72 DPI computer screen and bump it up for use on 300 DPI printers. I got mine from Black Gold, it's a bit cheaper then the kit from Micromark. But they are also EXPENSIVE, which is why I haven't ordered them (I am currently independently poor). I downloaded and played around with these a little bit. Thanks a lot for explaining your method in detail.

And I did use a toothpick to remove the masking. It might but I'm not sure. http://www.megahobby.com/micromeshpolishingstixset5setspk6pcpkdifferentgritsscalemotorsport.aspx, Not just one of them hotdog pilots, THE hotdog man himself.

According to the spray can it says to clean with turpentine or mineral spirits. Is it the Testors tube cement?
In my next update I will begin applying the photo decals.

Posts: 2272From: Bellevue, NE, USARegistered: Aug 2007. What if I approached Tamiya and asked for a replacement window part? I tested some Goo Gone on a spare sheet of styrene painted with acrylic and it did not hurt the acrylic paint finish.

I got the one from Black Gold because it was cheaper than the one from Micromark. Remember the last images I posted of it lit up, the light shined through the plastic. What happened on your build? At this point I decided to light up the shuttle to see if all that silver spray painting I went through paid off or not. Anyone have any ideas on how to remove this? Novus #3 is a heavy scratch remover. I don't know how this can be buffed out, or if it can be buffed out. I would NOT use a heat gun or a hair dryer. I can't put too much elbow grease on the windows for fear they might come unglued and fall out into crew compartment. I use a sheet of polystyrol which is cheap and can be reused again and again for this purpose. Be careful not to let the tracing paper slip or slide at all while you are drawing your shape. I also use them for practicing some skills so that I am ready for the bigger and more complicated tasks. If you only get those small runs you can try to rub them away with a cocktail sticks this works normally quite well especially if the paint is not fully cured. I know he did a series of shuttle decals, but don't know if he did the 1/100 scale or the heat shield. Then paint the color over it. This step made me a bit nervous because of the way I had used the paper and spray adhesive to mask the windows. I doctored it it in Photoshop to taste, and then printed it on decal paper on my inkjet printer. Or is there another way to go about it? Although there are other polishing compounds that might be better. Posts: 382 From: Rochester, NY Registered: Jan 2012: posted 05 … While I wait, I'll knock out some of these decals! If I didn't do this, the decals would print blurry and all of this work would be for nothing.

It looks great so far and I can't wait to see the custom decals you are making. Ed Bisconti on eBay "may" have done one, but 1/100 doesn't command the aftermarket like 1/144 and 1/72 do. Normally I use a heat gun to remove stickers, I'm wondering if it will do the trick on this. Testors tube cement can be good for some uses but I feel a good liquid plastic weld cement is better for this and most of the more crucial seems. And where can I get Micro-Mesh? Either the styrene, the paint or both will melt. You'd need a polishing kit with micro mesh cloths to polish the windows back to the original shine.
  Your link has been automatically embedded. That polishing kit from Hobbylinc is the same as the 2 others I showed you. What glue did you use when you first attached the windows? I think it is possible to fix this but my suggestion is not for the faint hearted.   Pasted as rich text. On an older model shuttle, one would be faced with the problem of how to transition the beanie cap into the rest of the nose. And finally, this part of the painting is really giving me fits. Do you think this one will work? Here's how it turned out: It wasn't easy removing the mask.

There isn't much, if any, elbow grease needed. Any lines or imperfections showing are from reflections, glare and the inside of the window part. It makes perfect sense due to the CE 1/72 tile set being designed for the 1/72 Revell shuttle kit. Here's another window issue. http://www.megahobby.com/micromeshpolishingstixset5setspk6pcpkdifferentgritsscalemotorsport.aspx - Link to sanding sticks. Oh and I just thought of this: If the polishing attempt fails, what if I used black window tinting spray over all the windows to hide the error? Would something like Goo-Gone or Fast Orange be safe to use? Any reason not to use a heat gun on a painted model? It should be amazing! Otherwise just leave the windows as is and use it as a lesson learned. But of course, that won't help for 1/100 scale. Once the clear window part was blended in and polished I applied Tamiya masking tape cut into the shape of each window. In 1/72, the decals fit a lot better, although there were some dimensional issues I had to overcome between the Monogram kit I was using and the Revell kit the decals were designed for (the Monogram kit is slightly narrower in the rear). You just start with the coarsest grit and work your way up to the finest grit.


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